Balenciaga A/H 2008

Usually it seems that Balenciaga starts with a clean slate every season, creating something that we've never seen before, something ground-breaking and something that is instantly the season's zeitgeist. This season, however, Nicholas Ghesquiere has really built on the foundations of his P/E 2008 collection by working on and enhancing shapes he toyed with six months ago. The result is a futurist-retrospect hybrid that is concise and incredibly stylish. And, of course, still the season's zeitgeist. How does he do that?

Despite similar lines and seaming, this season diverts from PE08 in one big way: skirt length and volume (or lack thereof). I feel that the skirts here actually have a quite nineties feel to them. The splits enhance this feeling, as does the colour scheme. The contrast between the monotone ensembles and those in patterned material is palpable, which is fantastic - we need to be challenged. It all lends itself perfectly to the said hybrid. The patterns suggest a near-stereotypical 1990's mood, yet the dresses themselves - their cut, length (note the sleeve lengths!), and sensibility - are incredibly modern.

The fabrics are quite varied here which, for me, reinforces the future/retro paradox. Many of these materials look made for a sci-fi film (check out the boots!), but the styling and jewellery (two bracelets and a necklace worn together) seem very late 20th century. This is near-perfection when it comes to a fashion collection in the truest meaning of the word.

I feel Ghesquiere has raised his bar in a big way. The depth of this collection is truly phenomenal. I could go on for days, but by that time Ghesquiere would be referencing himself.

Long live the willingness to make the future yours!

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Pics: style.it