22 March 2009

Miuccia Prada does le crunch

New layers, new colours, new shapes, new exposure. Crunch-times according to Miuccia are ones of austere sensuality, organic palettes and what I like to call neanderthalic luxe.

Prada has been pushing this palette for a while now; perhaps suggesting, more than all the black on the runways ever could, the direction of austerity which is so pertinent right now. Certainly, if anyone, it must be Prada who hits the proverbial nail on the head in terms of capturing the (correct) zeitgeist. Looking at her work for Prada and Miu Miu this season as well as her SS09 collections and even her work for AW08, one can see this direction really manifesting itself.

I love the precarious balance between sexiness and marmsiness in the AW09 collections. The low-cut fronts, revealing just the right amount of chest (unfortunately virtually unwearable, I imagine, for the well-endowed sisters); the hotter-than-hot hot-pants, made of heavy, dark fabrics (wool?) to juxtapose their lack of length, into which almost-frumpy cardigans are tucked and poke out beneath the leg-holes; the thigh-high wading-boots; the sheer vests; and, my favourite, the ostentatious fur stoles, which seem the epitome of cover-up dressing until we learn to team them with an oh-so-sexy Miu Miu brassier (anyone who wants to send one of those my way is more than welcome - black, 32A).

It is this balance which makes Prada's work for both collections so special - there is always just the right element of everything. The new coat-shape of raised shoulders, large lapels and excess fabric in the waist gives the Prada woman a powerful stance, achieved without using the usual ploys of direct sexuality or mimicry of male silhouettes. A device all the better understood in terms of the Miu Miu collection, whose perspiring, bra-revealing, fur-wearing femme is more than ready to deal with the male species.

Prada is certainly showing us who's boss of this cave du crunch!

Auguste Anna D. Freja Hanne Mina Kinga
Tao Myf Sasha Dorothea Anna G. Daiane All pics: Style.com


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