Richard Nicoll AW09

Richard Nicoll has presented us with a novel concept for Autumn/Winter 2009/2010: no black. Can you imagine?

Certainly, if we go by what we've seen in many other collections this season, it is a surprise Richard Nicoll has decided to make black exempt. That said, he isn't one to follow trends, so maybe it's not such a surprise.

And that is the beauty of this collection: it doesn't seem to come from a predictable or obvious source. Nor does it seem merely to be a rejigging of pieces from the SS09 offering. There is new thoughts, new modes, new shapes. And he has used unconventional fabrics; PVC, bone-corsetry and toile canvas all in the same collection.

Plus there is his collaboration with visual artist Linder Sterling, who created beautiful collages of women and flowers for the prints you see on Hanne's dress. These images become abstracted and ironically subverted by Nicoll's use of them for flowing dresses and tight corsets.

Overall, we get the impression Nicoll is experimenting, seeing where the ideas take him. I'm very much liking this direction, and I'm excited to see where he takes us next.

Sara Hanne Karlie Dorothea Amanda Liu Alana Egle Alyona Jessica Pics: Style.com