29 October 2008

Louis Vuitton PE09

The Louis Vuitton Printemps/Ete 2009 collection is one of my favourites from the revered French house in a while. I mean, of course I loved AH08 for it’s sleek lines, exaggerated silhouette and structural jewellery, but PE09 is something else, and is so apt for the current climate.

Some points for you to consider:

1) Wearability - the house of Vuitton is, for the first time in a while, offering a wonderful - and, crucially, very broad - wearability. The pieces work brilliantly as a whole - like a puzzle which, with every piece in place, comes together perfectly - and also as a series of individual garments, with both stand-out show-stoppers for those riding out the recession by amping up the ra-ra (Siri), and fantastic, classic staples for those tightening their belts (Natasha).

2) Colour - one would have thought it was impossible to please everyone, but I really feel, colour-wise, Marc Jacobs has done it with this collection. He has kept happy both those who feel Spring automatically equals bright happy-happy, joy-joy colours and those who prefer more subdued, subtle hues, which perhaps carry on to winter more easily. Proof: I love this collection and I don't wear colour per se.
Not only has his colour choice mirrored perfectly the fact that we no longer - at least climatically - have seasons, it has reflected, and excuse me for my literal-mindedness, both a mood of optimism (Kamila) and that of impending doom (Bruna), the two inspiration-choices designers have apparently had this season, according to trend-forecasters. Jacobs must be doing well.

3) Length (or lack thereof) - can I just say "hot!"? I'm sorry to be vulgar, but I love legs, and these skirts are just the right length for me to go: wow! Who said the mini was passe? OK, I will now say a practical comment: these minis are great because not only do they look amazing in summer with sandals or pumps, they actually work brilliantly in winter, too, paired with thick tights and ankle boots. So, there. HOT.

4) Shape - will you take a look at those shoulders? Now that's what I call power! This silhouette is just so impressive, and I feel it's new for Vuitton, which is refreshing. These sharp-shouldered panelled jackets are divine and will no doubt be one of the must-haves for the season (purple and black is the go, I feel). It really is all about the shoulder, even the vest-top makes it all about the shoulders (Iris), with the positioning of straps highlighting exactly where the power lies. Note also that there is both straight and a-line shapes, both waisted and drop-waisted. Cleverly, Jacobs has included a variety of options for those fussy editors and buyers, yet he's kept such a strong direction, such a strong message. How does he do it ... ?

5) Youth - that's what. Bottom line. There is a massive dose of the Youth drug in this collection. It's vibrant, it's fun, it's full-of-energy, it's fresh, clean, and ready to enter the world. Apart from the things outlined above, further proof is in the accessories, the varied fabrics, the hair, the makeup. They all add up to make a collection that feels so cool that I almost can't believe it's Vuitton. Except when I remember Marc Jacobs is genius. That is the thing, this is why I am so wowed by this collection, why it feels so new for Vuitton - it's the youth, the vibrancy, the fact that Marc Jacobs is so totally on this season.

These are the reasons why I think this is one of the smartest collections of the season. In all senses of the word.

Jourdan Siri Anya Iris Magdalena Irina Chanel Natasha Amanda Suvi Katrin Bruna Egle Anabela Kamila (Pics: Style.com)

1 Comments:

Blogger dbp said...

to be honest, it's not design which makes LV collections seem 'unwearable', it's the uber-styling of the shows which is usually complicated, very focused and solid. that makes an impression those clothes hard to wear which is totally not true. speaking of fw08/09 collections the only 2 items i saw in LV shop one can consider uncomfortable to wear were those impossible 18cm high heels (which, anyway, were almost sold out) and one big (and i mean BIG) black pseudo-ball gown which was just a bit too huge to be serious. all the other stuff included pretty simple coats, day dresses, pants and lots (LOTS!) of jersey stuff your granny would love to get her hands on. maybe it's just a singular case, but i feel LV is not about selling hard pieces. and, to be precious, LV is not about selling clothes at all. the best merchandise comes for (surprise surprise!) bags, shoes and accessories. and we saw plenty of that in this ss09 collection. the philosophy is simple: if people can't afford our jackets, let's sell them a pair of earrings, a key chain and some impossible wedges. for those who really dare and still have money to spend, we'll save some color explosion in silk and taffeta. and guess what? people gonna love it!

27 November, 2008 23:35  

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