25 February 2010

Peter Pilotto

Peter Pilotto is actually two people, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, and the two Antwerp-trained, London-based designers seem to be going from strength to strength - the latest collection is their best yet.

The last three seasons of Pilotto and De Vos' work prove their ability to use colour and texture to create garments that are at once unusually conceptual and surprisingly commercial, without being overtly either. That's not to say the clothes are non-committal - quite the opposite. A Peter Pilotto garment screams assurance, confidence and sensibility, and all without being obvious or giving too much away. The Peter Pilotto woman, according to the designers themselves, "is beyond pure classification".

Pilotto and De Vos' garments are thoughtful. They need a second look. Their Spring/Summer 2010 collection could be thrown carelessly in the coloured-mini-dress-for-summer pile, but when we look again we note the duo have mixed silks and satins with psychedelic Francis Bacon-inspired colours, canvas-inspired draping and industrial-mesh prints to create a beautiful juxtaposition of soft and hard, elevating party dress to statement piece.

The rigorous attention to cut and drape at Peter Pilotto has cemented the sense of chic-unique in their work and the latest collection is no exception. However, Autumn/Winter 2010 takes a far less dress-oriented stance, which is fitting considering the general turn this season from the mini-dress. And yet (of course) the trousers at Peter Pilotto are as chic as any dress - a smartly subtle bootleg and a mid-height waist that is flattering to women of all sizes. The prominence of orange is a brave move but they really pull it off - cashing in on the fashion machine's current openness to eclectic fabric and colour combinations. This also explains the success of the asymmetrical, seemingly random fur pieces.

These purposefully thought-provoking design elements are offset by classic coats and pullovers, creating that seductive balance of concept and commerce that can be hard for any woman to go past. Nevertheless, Peter Pilotto are sure to highlight the independence of their woman. She goes for their clothes not only because they are beautifully made and look fantastic, but because she is a thinking woman - she takes a second look - "and will wear them with her own expression".

Read more from Pilotto and De Vos and get extra information at the London Fashion Week Designer Details page.


Blogger Asta Meldal Lynge said...

That's nice.

25 February, 2010 14:17  

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