Yves Saint Laurent A/H 2008

Alors, qu'avons-nous ici? I'm going to make a prediction. Even though the shows aren't over yet, I think it's pretty much official: the 'trend' of the season is the idea of futurism. Yes, yes, I know: again! But this time it's for real.

I lay it down to the fact that the world is gonna end soon and everyone is either hoping for some fourth age of man and going all indulgent, or paring it down in preparation for some post-apocalyptic metamorphosis. These two schools of thought are being projected onto the runways everywhere. I'm not joking, guys! Case in point: YSL AH08, who have gone for the latter notion of future (and wisely). Not even mentioning hair and makeup, - which is absolutely fantastic - this collection has an overall feel of forwardness, of an era we are yet to experience. Even the set has a new-world futuristic (optimistic?) feel to it and the accessories combine a practical utilitarianism with the inevitable impracticalities of wearing them (see: stilettos).

The clothes themselves focus on a new silhouette. It is one that allows movement (for running from tsunamis, perhaps?), suggesting a reinterpretation in styling, but remains extremely fashion-y in regards to cut, fit and fabric. This paradox is further seen in what you would call the collection's 'evening wear'. If something is in a more ornate fabric, like satin, it is teamed with something more practical, like wool or corduroy, to solemnify it. This creates an interesting interplay between the opposing fabrics (and the ideas associated with them), creating further depth to something which could otherwise be deemed run-of-the-mill.

Lastly, the use of excess folded fabric layered onto coats and dresses suggests indulgence but the colours used (brown, burgundy, beige) convey the opposite: a grounding and sense of seriousness, or impending doom, or reality?

Either way, if this is the future, count me in!

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Pics: Style.com

Balenciaga A/H 2008

Usually it seems that Balenciaga starts with a clean slate every season, creating something that we've never seen before, something ground-breaking and something that is instantly the season's zeitgeist. This season, however, Nicholas Ghesquiere has really built on the foundations of his P/E 2008 collection by working on and enhancing shapes he toyed with six months ago. The result is a futurist-retrospect hybrid that is concise and incredibly stylish. And, of course, still the season's zeitgeist. How does he do that?

Despite similar lines and seaming, this season diverts from PE08 in one big way: skirt length and volume (or lack thereof). I feel that the skirts here actually have a quite nineties feel to them. The splits enhance this feeling, as does the colour scheme. The contrast between the monotone ensembles and those in patterned material is palpable, which is fantastic - we need to be challenged. It all lends itself perfectly to the said hybrid. The patterns suggest a near-stereotypical 1990's mood, yet the dresses themselves - their cut, length (note the sleeve lengths!), and sensibility - are incredibly modern.

The fabrics are quite varied here which, for me, reinforces the future/retro paradox. Many of these materials look made for a sci-fi film (check out the boots!), but the styling and jewellery (two bracelets and a necklace worn together) seem very late 20th century. This is near-perfection when it comes to a fashion collection in the truest meaning of the word.

I feel Ghesquiere has raised his bar in a big way. The depth of this collection is truly phenomenal. I could go on for days, but by that time Ghesquiere would be referencing himself.

Long live the willingness to make the future yours!

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Pics: style.it

Microsoft Messenger

OK, I don't usually do this but I was having a Messenger conversation with a good friend from back home (Australia) and he told me he'd read some of my blog, and asked me if I'd been to see all the shows I'd written about. Naturally, I said, "no, I wish," and we went on to talk a bit more about this whole "fashion" thing.

He doesn't really know anything about the industry and I always find it hard to explain myself and my relationship with fashion to people who don't know anything about it, but for some reason I decided to have a stab at explaining to him how I feel. Here's the transcript:

Pat says:
i read your other blogs, the ones from the fashion shows
Pat says:
pretty impressive
Eleanor says:
haha thanks ... lol. it's kinda embarassing when i know ppl have read it ... even tho that's the whole idea ... i guess that's just the weird paradox about blogs
Pat says:
lol yeah well nice work
Pat says:
so did you go to all these shows yourself?
Eleanor says:
haha no. i wish. nah, i just went to a couple during london fashion week, but nothing major
Pat says:
oh well they still wouldve been great
Eleanor says:
yeah... the whole thing's kinda funny, really. on one hand i love it and on the other i think it's the biggest load of bullshit
Pat says:
how so?
Eleanor says:
i dunno, the fashion industry can be really amazing and inspiring with incredibly talented artists and designers ... but it can also be really superficial and soulless. there a people who are in the industry just because they want to go to the 'right' parties, be seen by the 'right' people, have the latest trends on their backs and feet and feel superior as a result. for me, these are the people who bring it down.
Pat says:
fair enough, i don't think i'd enjoy the company of those sorts and i can see your point
Eleanor says:
i dont really care about wearing designer labels, for me its an appreciation of the time, thought and effort that has gone into creating something beautiful and new or projecting an idea through the medium of clothing. i think it should be used to express who you are not what you think you should be.
Pat says:
yea
Eleanor says:
anyway, that's my little ramble! :)

(Please excuse my Messenger-lingo and poor grammar and spelling!)

So I guess that was just an expression of my thoughts on fashion at that point in time, I hope I haven't bored you with it but I find it quite interesting especially given the context (i.e. on Messenger and to someone completely unrelated to fashion).

By the way, it is only in hindsight, after I'd had this discourse, that I thought to post it on here. This was not a preconceived plot to reveal my opinions and get up on my soap-box, the idea of a blog is self-promotional enough without me trying to persuade you to think like me - how hypocritical. Though, frankly, if not now then when can we be honest about our opinions?

Prada A/I 2008

P to the R to the A to the D to the A! Miuccia Prada is the queen of contrary. I love that - apparently - she based this collection on lace because she hate's the stuff! How fab is that? How RADical is that? And that is precisely why fashion loves her. Needs her.

Take this here Autumno/Inverno 2008/2009 offering. She has presented what could only be called an austere collection made from the one fabric which is most frequently associated with sexuality and seduction: lace. It's genius. Interestingly, she has used very masculine shapes in the shirts and collars, raised neck-lines and lowered waist-lines. However, all in all, this comes across as an incredibly female-orientated collection.

The skin-tone skirts and skivvies hide a multitude of sins for the modern (or is it post-modern?) woman. It is about what we cannot see, what is hidden, what is sheathed, in this case, in lace. The delicate cardigans, skirts and dresses, made in what appears to be a fragile crocheted lace, layered over the said fleshy under-layer, creates a sense of strong individualism, of independence from the modern man. A strong woman, comfortable with herself and sexuality, would wear these clothes. Indeed, the coats with swathes of tough waves of excess fabric almost give the impression of a reptilian woman, powerful and confident ... yet, underlining it all is this prim and proper, high-collared, long-sleeved, - dare I say it - demure woman ... but sexy. With claws. And teeth! (Check out the shoes!).

Hence, it could be said to be all one big contradiction and, thus, a shambles, but I find it to be the opposite. In fact, one of the most concise collections I've seen from Prada.

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Pics: style.com

Jil Sander A/I 2008

It seems Raf Simons for Jil Sander can do no wrong. Perhaps it's their likeness when it comes to syllables? Or maybe not. Anyway, I always find Simons' collections for Jil Sander impossibly stylish and strong. His cut and line seems almost second-to-none and I love that there is this constant respectability-without-prudishness feel to the clothes.

This collection, in particular, has a slightly dark feel to it with the monochrome colours, gashing collars, excess fabric, engraved geometrics and very structured (almost restrictive-looking) dresses. It is practical but not pragmatic. It's certainly for 2008 but it also reminds me of a certain 1940's sensibility, a reserved and uncertain time. Either way, the style comes through like a beacon of light: strong, wise, determined and, above all, intelligent. Just like Mr. Simons, I suspect.

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Pics: Style.com